Here is an exhaustive "to do" list that Dan Tortora sent me!

The Complete List of things to do to a New Gemini 105

Complied by Dan Tortora, Per Amore hull# 618

1.Install on the unsteped mast a Raython RL72RC Radar/Cahtplotter, an Omni Directional Status TV Antenna, a GAB Electronics Cellular Antenna (mast head) and a AcquaSignal Steeming Flood Light Combo and restep the mast. - In Progress - Dan Tortora, Per Amore # 618

2.Install a Interphase Twinscope in the forward section of the Port hull. - next -

3.Inspect floatation tanks for water intrusion according to Bob Olson "Simple Pleasures" Pamlico Sound in North Carolina "...we discovered "brown" water in front of the starboard water tank. At first we thought it was a leak in the fresh water tank but finally discovered the floatation tank was half full of sea water..."

4. Put large see thru inspection ports in the floor in front of the water tanks "I cut into the space underneath the water tanks only to find them filled to the top with water, which had turned brown from contact with the underside of the raw plywood. On my boat there was no hole into other areas of the bilge or into the flotation tank. This water had come from the water tanks leaking from the inspection ports prior to my sealing them and then running down into this area thru holes around the side boards that hold the water tank in place. Perhaps you have a similar problem. I ended up putting large see thru inspection ports in the floor in front of the water tanks after pumping out the water and drying the wood I cut into the space underneath the water tanks only to find them filled to the top with water, which was had turned brown from contact with the underside of the raw plywood." According to Tom and Gina Muha "Taj Muha" #553

5.Check lube oil drain plugs near the propeller for corrosion and paint removal. Replace the steel plug with stainless steel, get extra plugs and fill exposed head and threads of the plug with grease and cover with aluminized tape. According to Mark Purdy.105M, #547 Aristocat

6.Routinely remove the propeller and grease the spline shaft, maybe annually or every six months, depending upon use. According to Mark Purdy.105M, #547 Aristocat

7.Inspect and replace the sacrificial zinc which is concealed by the propeller hub. According to Mark Purdy.105M, #547 Aristocat

8.Put sealant (latex caulk) around the penetrations for the steering cables from inside the outboard storage. This should prevent water intrusion and mildew on the fabric on the aft bulkhead. According to Mark Purdy. 105M, #547 Aristocat.

9.Organize wires behind control console. Get a look George Lefler's Stardancer as an example of perfection in wiring. According to Mark Purdy. 105M, #547 Aristocat

"The electrical connections became a high priority for me when I tried to add a charger/inverter. I found that rat's nest behind the panel was unacceptable and rewired the whole thing. What prompted it was a short that fried one of the A/C breakers. It turns out I also added several more switches and fuses for better control over the instruments, lights, etc. that I added. If I were to do it all over again, I really consider replacing the breaker panels with separate switches and fuses or breakers. The breakers installed in the 105 are not really designed to be used as on/off switches, anymore than circuit breakers in your house are." According to Geo. W. Lefler Stardancer #522 Woodinville, WA

10.Examine the two allen head screws that hold the pivot pins in place for the drive leg. Make sure they do not interfere with the casting when turning hard. If damaged or deformed replace them with shorter ones such that when fully seated, they are recessed into the surrounding casting or with hex head screws. Grease screws or coat with Antisieze compound. According to Mark Purdy. 105M, #547 Aristocat

11.Check the large yoke casting that attaches the Sonic leg esp after a hit. According to Mark Purdy. 105M, #547 Aristocat

Check for what? Dan Tortora, Per Amore # 618

12.Obtain from Sonic Leg Ltd. and always carry a spare yoke, a spare propeller, extra stainless oil drain plugs and a maintenance kit. According to Mark Purdy. 105M, #547 Aristocat

13.Seal the inspection ports atop the water tanks with a curable sealant to prevent overflow and do not fill tanks to the top. According to Mark Purdy. 105M, #547 Aristocat

What is the name of the sealant? ANS..: Clear Silicon Seal. Dan Tortora, Per Amore # 618

Will silicone gel or Teflon tape work? ANS.: Yes Dan Tortora, Per Amore # 618

14.Install a filter in front of water pump. According to Mark Purdy. 105M, #547 Aristocat

Done: Dan Tortora, Per Amore # 618

15.Mount a outboard motor mount on the starboard hull. West Marine Master Catalog on page 283 (see page 291 in 1998 Master Catalogue). WM Part#s 3803219 ( Fulton Adjustable Outboard Bracket) = $114.49 and 546499 (Fulton transom plate) = $52.99. According to Rob Hoffman SUNDOG #551. Or a Grelick Auxiliary Outboard Bracket #71090 (WM# 193328) = $217.99. I will need a transom mounting plate with the Grelick. Check with Ron Russell of Russell Fabrications (410.798.7255) for this. According to Tom "Taj Muha" #553

I have not figured the relative merits of either. Looking for input. Dan Tortora, Per Amore # 618

This involves moving the swim ladder to the port hull where it should be.

16.Mount a "Life sling" MOB system in a hard or soft case affixed to the stern bridgedeck rails. According to Rob Hoffman SUNDOG #551.

17.Add 2 Group 27s to the house side which will add 210 Ah. This will give me a total of 550 Ah. I was thinking of installing these extra batteries in the port locker above the other batteries? Other locations I have considered are under the port or starboard aft bunks. I prefer the starboard to balance the boats weight distribution. Of course this means a long run with heavy wire. Any suggestions? Dan Tortora, Per Amore # 618

18.Pull out the breaker/switch panels a giving a tug on each of the wires going into crimp connectors. Do the same for the instruments, mast wires, fridge, and everywhere else. Check couplings too, and when you see two different wire sizes (a 12 ga and 20 ga, as is the case for the fridge) coupled with a crimp-coupling especially be sure to tug on these wires. Have your crimp connector kit at hand. According to Len Krauss #625 Sundancer III

19.Look everywhere for any sharp bends in propane copper tubing, ESP on the fridge. This can become a leak hazard in time. According to Len Krauss #625 Sundancer III

20.Look into Backing Plates for davits and, perhaps more importantly, for the handrails going up the steps on the transom, To prevent fiberglass cracking. Reinforce the entire hardware assembly on the stern of the boat with stainless backing plates and other strengthening hardware so that the weight of davits, dinghy, solar panels, and motor can be tolerated without over-stressing the stern structure and fiberglass. According to Tom and Gina Muha "Taj Muha" # 553 Check with Ron Russell of Russell Fabrications (410.798.7255).

21.Put a lower aft rail in the center section to replace the lifeline that goes all the way across -- this adds further strength to that area which in fact totally supports the davits. According to Len Krauss #625 Sundancer III.

22.Ask Len where he got the rail and How much did he spend?

23.Have 1" ss tube with flattened ends made up to drop over those top projections on the davits-- held in place by ss hairpins. According to Len Krauss #625 Sundancer III.

I found an extendible Aluminum tube used for support of Soft Bimini Tops on sale in Boaters World, Annapolis. The tube was configured According to your description and cost only $35.00, so I used it instead of the Kato $199 Ss alternative.. Do not know how permanent it is. Any Thoughts about this?. Where did you get your SS tube? Dan Tortora, Per Amore # 618

24.Fit the anchor locker with a washdown pump. According to Tom and Gina Muha "Taj Muha" #553 -

Mine is in the sail locker - Dan Tortora, Per Amore # 618-

25.Change the bale on the anchor roller so that it will open when we want to place a different anchor on the roller. According to Tom and Gina Muha "Taj Muha" #553

26.Check for leaks at the joint between the top and bottom halves of the boat especially at the bows and seal if found. "when we got to Georgetown, Exuma, found we had a moldy closet in the master cabin. Water apparently came in the deck to hull join in the 'pointy' part. The carpet on the floor was also moldy so cut it out, washed, dried, etc. Filled the 'hole' with 5200 stuff and hope for the best. Our friends at the dock before your arrival, Voortrekker III, they found the same closet leak, etc. as us just 2 days before ours. Same exact leak, etc." According to Sid & Julie Blachford Class-i-cat Bahamas

27. Check outdrive steering lines for wear and the metal plate for roughness. Repair if necessary. ."..the aft outdrive steering lines, connected to the rudder, broke...Standing on the bottom step, lifting the lid to see the steering cables, etc. . . it is the line that runs through a metal plate that gave way. The milling on his plate with the hole in it was not finished off and essentially sawed the rope in half. "According to Sid & Julie Blachford Class-i-cat Bahamas.

28. Rotate the gaiter/boot 90 or 180 degrees at least annually. I am about to order a replacement gaiter/boot for the sonic drive leg as well as hydraulic hose for same. I wanted to reiterate a suggestion that has been made here before: rotate the gaiter/boot 90 or 180 degrees at least annually. The bottom of the boot is stressed when the drive leg is in the up position (virtually all of the time of course) and the oil sits in the bottom of the boot as well. I think rotating the boot would have doubled the life of it at least. According to W. Mark Powell

29. Have a Gater/Boot Cover made of sumbrella and cover the gater/boot

30.Check the routing of the 1/8" hydraulic hose that runs from the hand pump to the drive and place a length of 3/8" fuel line (or whatever was handy) over the hose in the area of the motor mounts and secured it with nylon ties. I would also suggest that everyone check the routing of the 1/8" hydraulic hose that runs from the hand pump to the drive. Mine chaffed thru on the motor mount about a year ago. The drive leg end is a European/metric? thread and difficult to replicate. I had this end replaced by a local hydraulic parts company with what I thought was a solid brass fitting until it disintegrated from the inside out recently. Since I am selling the boat I am replacing the hose with an original to avoid future problems. To avoid the chaffing problem I placed a length of 3/8" fuel line (or whatever was handy) over the hose in the area of the motor mounts and secured it with nylon ties. According to W. Mark Powell

31. Replace all the Hatch Latches with Perko Lockable Latches.

32. Stop leaks in the Aft Lockers by:

a. Replace the latches with the new Perko latches. What was the model #?

b. Seal the rim of the hatches with rubber weather seal.

c. Build that box thing depicted in the photos.

d. Seal the wholes through which the steering cables run with removable sealant

33. Fabricate and then install Bimini Support

a. Contact Fabricators and get estimates - done

i. Ron Russel (410) 798-7255 Rusfab@aol.com

ii. Dave Miller (302) 454-7025 JDMILLER@GATEWAY.NET

34. Buy and install scuppers under bridge deck

a. West has scuppers

b. Find scuppers with balls .

35. Get estimates for Canvas/vinyl enclosure for cockpit

a. Cheryl at Starbird Canvas in Havre de Grace (410) 939-3041 Starbird@erols.com Ball Park Est $1500 +/- $200

.36. Reinforce Bulkhead under mast wit .5:" teak plywood 21" x 13" sheet between window cutouts on the salon side of the bulkhead. Glue and screw to that area.

37. Coat teak with BioShield allied with bronze wool and diluted with Citris Terp. ala Rob Hoffman.

38. Buy and install Whale Gusher 220 in place of the Gusher 99 shower pump. The 220 is more powerful and self priming.

39. Polyshine the outer surface of the boat.

Sincerely

Dan Tortora "Per Amore" #61