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Projects -
SUNDOG's Project Page
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Here
is the project picture gallery from SUNDOG!
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  This
is an easy addition of a piece of ˝" beige "starboard" material.
It is hinged at the back to fold up vertically and reveal the
head. When down, it serves as a seat for the shower and keeps
shower water out of the bilge behind the head…and hides the "porcelain
telephone"! |
 The rudder "up-down" control lines on a 105 pass through an opening exposed to the weather. This will allow rain and spray to enter both stern lockers. The added drain shelf and baffle shown catches the water and drains it aft into the rudder compartment and on out. |
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 The vertical panel with the notch out of the corner was the original cover for the battery area. Now installed vertically into cabinet hasps, it covers the new and larger battery/wiring area. The cut out allows access to both the main switch and the 110v outlet mounted inside. |
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The
Sonic leg has had the drain plug replaced with a stainless one
and all the Allen head
screws in the yoke replaced with hex heads with thin locking nuts.
The yoke bearings are now retained by the addition of bolts and
overlap washers to prevent the loss of the bearing materials from
being pushed out by grease pressure. A Sunbrella cover fastened
with Velcro protects the upper bellows gaiter from UV damage.
The white notched piece of high density polyethylene (HDPE) is
attached to the mounting plate and engages the square boss on
the top of the leg casting to keep the leg centered while in the
"up" position. |
 This
view illustrates an additional Genoa track lower and outboard
of the stock one. This new sheeting point is an important choice
in certain wind conditions, where the "slot" needs to be more
open. Both upper and lower tracks are fitted with custom-built
Harken blocks that open like snatch-blocks to allow the jib sheets
to be easily shifted. |
 This
is a view into the area above the stock battery compartment. SUNDOG
now carries two 6-volt Trojan fork-lift batteries (L-16s) as the
house bank. All stock wiring was removed and re-done with proper
fusing and larger grades of wire as shown. Electrical up-grades
included a larger alternator, dedicated starting battery and the
LINK 2000R control system. |
 View
of Trojan XCHS 30 dedicated starting battery and new engine main
switch housed in starboard cockpit compartment. In an emergency,
both battery banks can be combined. Total battery capacity is
480ah. |
 SUNDOG
supports her hard dodger with a custom-built marine aluminum arch
made by a fabricator who builds "Tuna towers" for fishing boats.
While being very strong, the entire unit weighs less than 10 pounds
and contains internal wiring for the LED
based overhead cockpit lights. |
 SUNDOG's
SGC 2000 SSB radio uses an insulated backstay for the antenna.
This is one of the grounding plates installed on each hull. They
are made of copper flashing material and are attached to the hulls
with 5200. They are an R.F. ground only and are part of a larger
system of copper foil inside the boat that also uses the engine
block. |
 Whisker
poles can be stored in a variety of ways. As shown, we carry ours
attached to two deck mounted chocks and supported by two pads of
˝" EPDM rubber glued to the deck with 5200. The pole is used to
keep the genny full when running downwind…a "must have" for a cruising
cat. |
 We
have an older 105, so our propane bottles store in the horizontal
position. We added the tie down strap to meet ABYC codes and also
caulked the compartment's joints again to ensure that only one
overboard exit for any leaking gas was left. The "black box" is
the smart regulator for the 130-amp alternator. The aluminum canister
stored under the strap is a "Baja" fuel filter. |
 Early
model 105's could be VERY noisy at anchor due to "wave slap" on
a ledge "step-out" on each hull that presented a flat surface very
close to the water. We fixed ours by fairing in that "corner" to
present a new angled surface. We used single part foam covered with
tri-axial cloth and epoxy. Spraying it with factory gel coat then
finished off the new surface. It's very quiet now. |
 This
mast installation was done with the mast on the ground before
launching. All wiring was run through existing mast chases and
through the existing hole for the stock steaming light, which
was removed. The new steaming light also provides for a deck floodlight.
All has worked well, except that our RL-9 radar has been very
problem prone. Buy Furuno radar equipment and you will have no
problems! |
 If
you have a factory installed fresh water stern shower, the attached
rubber cover will probably break off and fall overboard fairly soon.
The picture shows a cheap and robust replacement in the form of
a standard PVC plumbing piece that was turned down a little in a
lathe for a snug fit. It has a hole drilled in the top for a securing
line to stanchion base. |
 This
photo shows a hose connection where a dock water hose can be attached
to the boats internal fresh water system. It includes a pressure-reducing
valve to lower the dock pressure to 40 psi, which is safe for
the boat's plumbing. It is simply "Teed into the line feeding
the shower and allows you to operate off an endless supply of
fresh water while dockside. Do not ever leave the boat unattended
while using one of these…a blown off pipe fitting inside can flood
and sink your boat…turn it off on the dock whenever you leave
your boat unattended! |
  On
early 105's, all the external hatch latches were a Perko model designed
for use on bait well covers…they were never intended to be waterproof,
but could be fitted with an optional cover that helped a lot. We
choose to replace all of ours with a locking Perko model that is
fully waterproof…all can be keyed alike. The two top pictures show
the stock latches, with the right one showing the optional cover
in place.  The
picture below shows the fully waterproof and locking Perko model
in place…it is a little bigger, but not hard to retrofit. If you
have the older model latches, you will never have dry storage until
you replace them. |
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The fuel line
taps in the existing propane locker (legal) and the flexible line
is easy to route aft above the |
  When
the boat is stored, we use the "snap-on" canvas cover shown to secure
the instruments and cover the upper fridge vents. In port it can
be left on and rolled up to allow the fridge to work. |
 We
use our asymmetrical chute quite a lot. It is a Melges 24 light
air chute that we picked up "on sale" from JSI. We had it installed
in an ATN "chute scoop" launch system, which works very reliably.
We tack it to a bridle, whose legs are then led through blocks attached
with a loop of lifeline cable to each bow cleat and led aft to a
winch. This enables us to shift the tack from side to side and required
no additional hardware to be permanently mounted to the boat. The
cable "loop" is thin enough to allow normal use of the cleat with
a mooring line. |
Cover
those big windows…and they will last a lot longer without UV  damage
 and
the inside of the boat will stay cooler when you run your AC in
the hot months. Local canvas shop made these that are attached with
snaps. We had all our canvas done in gray including the Genny and
Main covers. It's not that we don't like color, it's just that the
gray looks new forever…it's the only Sunbrella "color" that ages
without any visible change. |
 We
use a "soft" boom vang tackle attached to the Dutchman "Boom Brake".
This combo gives us a detachable vang/preventer and makes "power
jibes" safe and controllable. |
 Late
model 105s have an engine driven hot water heater, but for those
of us with our trusty (?) gas Palomas, the screw opening Vetus deck
vent is prone to bending the single small shaft that holds the cover
on, if it is kicked or stepped on when open. The local metal shop
made this neat stainless "spider" that now protects that delicate
shaft. (0012) |
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(2)
Mounted in the same cabinet as the AC unit is the heat exchanger
and blower fan for a Red-Dot "bus-heater" that uses engine heat
to warm the cabin when the engine is running…just like a car heater.
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 More
ventilation is afforded by mounting powered solar driven fan vents
in both of the forward hatches…both are set to exhaust and run
all the time. This can be a big help in keeping odor and mildew
down when the boat is stored. |
 Good
turnbuckle covers can be easily (and cheaply!) fabricated from sections
of thin-wall PVC plumbing pipe. Put them on before you tune by sequentially
disconnecting each shroud and slide them up and over the turnbuckle
and re-connect. They can be taped out of the way up on the shroud
when you need to adjust the turnbuckle. |
 This
is one of a pair of "Sliphooks" that we use to be able to disconnect
the aft lowers and move them forward when running downwind. Available
from West-Diep Yachts in Holland : 058-23 92 48 is fax number, Attn:
Michel Paquet. |
 These
halyard bags were a West Marine product. We like them a lot for
keeping the lines and a winch handle. |
 PVC
shroud rollers are sold in pairs…so one used to ease the genny around
the inner forestay when tacking will leave you with a spare…or one
to share. |
 In
this mast photo, note the addition of a pair of double-line rope
clutches above the winches. These are invaluable in holding loaded
halyards and the topping lift to free up a winch drum or mast cleat
for another chore. The short track on the front of the mast is for
the whisker pole's use. Our sail cover is a modified UK "Lazy Cradle"
which is an integral sail cover system with lazy jacks. Unlike the
"Mack-Pack", it fully protects and covers both mast winches, rope
clutches and other mast mounted hardware. |
  We
choose to discard the canvas cover over the hard dodger that fills
with rain and gets scummy. We glazed each opening with medium bronze
tint Plexiglas with the same methods used by the factory in the
installation of the other fixed windows. No pooling water, easy
to clean and you can see the sails through them now. |
  Later
model 105s have this access hatch to get to the area behind the
fridge. Note added clamshell vents in cover. We retrofitted this
one, as well as another one like it, in the aft bulkhead in the
bow storage locker, where there was no service access to the holding
tank as the boat was delivered (picture to the right). If your
boat does not have these hatches, the install is easy and the
access to both areas for service is mandatory. |
 The
little forward "lift-up" vents in the hard dodger on our boat
began to sag when open. We added a plex batten to each to keep
them stiff and flat. |
 The
addition of the PVC pipe (schedule 40) on the aft edge of the hard-dodger
prevents accidental contact of the boom hardware with the new plex
windows up there and makes a secure hand rail as well. |
 A
turning block was added to the roller furling termination at the
cockpit. It allows a fair lead for pulling up on the line (using
leg muscles)…much easier! This reefing line is led through added
ball bearing stanchion fairleads and an additional block mounted
on the bow pulpit near the furling drum to lessen the chance of
a line foul due to a bad drum wrap. |
 Ever
wondered where the inspection port is for your starboard "watertight"
flotation compartment? If your boat is like ours, it is buried under
the carpet! You have to very carefully cut the carpet away with
a razor knife and the glue the edges down flush with the port. Having
done this, you can now inspect the compartment on occasion, as PCI
recommends. We are slowing filling up all four of ours with empty,
sealed up, plastic drink bottles…mostly one-liter water bottles.
That way, I know they will offer some flotation…I'm not so sure
otherwise! |
 I
think the area under the aft berths could do with a little ventilation.
We added these small louvered vents to the bulkheads in front of
each aft berth. |
 As
items of preference, we added a gooseneck reading light, a Hella
fan, a Xintex CO detector, and a recessed 12v cigarette lighter
socket in each of the two aft staterooms. The main bunk and the
head also have CO detectors. |
 The
settee area of our boat's main bulkhead mounts (left to right):
a Hella Fan, a small gooseneck lamp, a Force 10 propane heater,
the teak reinforcement panel in the center, a Kloss Model 88 Radio-CD-Tape
Player in overhead cabinet, a 3 piece grouping of Barometer-Clock-Thermometer
by Weems and Plathe, and another gooseneck reading light and Hella
Fan. |
 A
simple safety addition is the install off a pair of short Teak handrails
to each corner of the saloon settee's backrests. |
 All
tank levels can be monitored with the install of this tank gauge
system. It is fully electronic and non-invasive of the tanks. |
 For
boats with propane "demand" water heaters, the problem of keeping
a stable water temperature can be solved with the addition of temperature
regulating valve. It is mounted in the counter top just aft of the
sink and faucet. |
  Some
minor additions to the head can be seen here, including the shower
curtain track detail, vanity mirror, interior trim on hatch vents
and Xintex CO monitor. The adjacent picture shows a couple of stainless
towel bars/hand-holds. |
 A
Heart Inverter can be installed in a number of places. We put ours
as shown in the port "under bunk" area. The stock cables are exactly
long enough to reach the battery compartment. This is a fan-cooled
unit. In this location, no overheating problems have occurred in
three years of use. The same space contains the AC pump and filter. |
 With
the 105's kick-up rudders and the Sonic drive, we found it safer
and easier to beach the bows, rather than trying to go in close
"stern to" as the earlier classic models seem to favor. For this
activity, we  installed
a "diver's" boarding ladder on the bow. It is removable for storage
in the bow compartment. The mount is seen attached in one picture
and the other shot shows the ladder in place. |
 Since
the propane locker needs to have a hasp to secure it to make it
meet ABYC codes, we added the same hasps to the other two cockpit
lockers. |
 This
is another overall view of the UK Lazy Cradle. |
 This
stern view shows that we carry our fenders and a Life Sling in a
hard container attached to the two added stainless rails that we
replaced the lifelines back there with. |
 Our
port stern carries an added bracket that allows a small outboard
motor mount to be slid into place. We can then mount our dink engine
on it for an emergency propulsion source. It's not fast, but it
will get you into an anchorage or out of the ICW if the big engine
dies and you can't sail. |
 This
shot shows some detail on the cam cleat mounting for the tension
line used on the backstay. Also, the rudder control lines can be
made easier to pull with the addition of some handles made of schedule
40 PVC pipe. |
 We
use the area on top of and adjacent to the fridge as our "nav" station.
This shot shows the radios (SSB & CB) with the GPS chart plotter,
power-data bracket for the back-up handheld GPS and Radar mounted
on a swing-out bracket that moves them into the window above the
helm when desired. Either GPS unit can supply NEMA data to the Autopilot
and both share the same Differential beacon receiver and externally
mounted antenna. |
  These
two views show SUNDOG's helm station. In one view the internal bracket
is shown with the Radar and GPS swung into the window to be seen
at the helm. We carry the usual AutoHelm autopilot and wind instruments,
but we use an Interphase Probe forward-looking sonar as our primary
depth sounder. We also carry an additional Humminbird depth and
"fish finder" that is surface mounted inside the other hull away
from the Probe. The clinometer's mounting is above the autopilot
control head. |
 The
antenna "farm" mounted on the aft rail includes the GPS, Citizen's
Band Radio (useful in the Bahamas) and the Differential Beacon receiver. |
 We
added a small closure hasp on the rudder lockers. |
 This
Hella fan is on a swing bracket that can position it into the
window in the main bulkhead to assist the flow of heat and air
into the main stateroom. |
 This
overall view of the main stateroom shows a removable overhead bunk
compass that also is used mounted on the RDF receiver for obtaining
a radio bearing. The little color TV and VHS video tape player also
utilize a large swing mount to hold them. |
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There are
a few things you can do to optimize the performance of the Dometic
fridge:
(3) Add an internal 12v blower to circulate the air inside the box and point it at the fins at the back of the box. (Right) (4) using copper or aluminum screen scraps, cover all the vents with screen. If you don't do this immediately, you will get critters (even rats!) inside your boat for crew. |
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Some more "data" for those going to a larger alternator:
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The Pelican Hooks enable easier access from a parallel dock, as they create a large side "gate" at the cockpit. The Pelican Hooks are designed to be swaged on, but in this use, I simply chased out and tapped the barrel of the swage fittings to RH 1/4-28 thread so it would screw up on the remaining threaded stud on the lifelines after the existing turnbuckles were removed. (tip: use a "bottom tap") For proper adjustment, it was also necessary to cut about 1" off the threaded stud before installation. I installed with Locktite 242 on the stud's threads. To complete the project, a pair of stainless "stop" collars needs to be clamped on each lifeline just aft of the first stanchion to maintain the tension in the forward section of each life lines when the new side "gates" are opened. The clamp on collars are from McMaster-Carr (404-346-7000), part #6436K9. |
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gallery
entries are added at the end of the page
- Rob Hoffman, SUNDOG #551